BEADING INSIDE WAISTBAND: To work beading for elastic inside waistband, fasten yarn, * Ch. 5, skip 2 sts. to the left, 1 slip st. in st. ½ inch below next st., Ch. 5, skip 2 sts., 1 sc in next st. at top, repeat from *.
BUTTONHOLES: Are indicated on charts by a dash-representing width of buttonhole.
Knitting: Bind off the given number of stitches, this same number of stitches to be cast on, on the next Row directly over the bound off sts. Finish buttonholes by overcasting.
Crochet: Ch. the desired number of sts, skip the same number of sts on previous Row and on next Row work over the ch. sts.
CROCHETING EDGES: When crocheting around bottom of skirt work first Row skipping every 6th st. Work all other rows in every stitch.
GARTER STITCH - Knit every Row. It will take 2 rows to make 1 ridge.
JOINING YARN - If possible always join a new ball of yarn at the beginning of a Row. When it is necessary to join the yarn while working across a Row, leave an end about 4 inches long; then work from the new ball of yarn on the next st, also leaving a 4 inch end. After working for 1 inch more, tie these two ends in a square knot, so that the tension will be the same as all other sts. When finishing work, run in these ends on wrong side for 1 inch.
KNIT-IN POCKETS: Work back of pockets as indicated on chart or pattern ending with a K. Row and put sts. on a st. holder. Work pocket opening as indicated on chart or pattern, binding off pocket sts. on a K Row. On next Row, work across to pocket opening, work pocket sts. from st. holder and continue across Row.
Knit in pockets in a raglan started at the neck. Work to pocket opening, slip pocket sts. on a st. holder, cast on the same number of sts. And continue to follow chart or pattern. When garment is completed, pick up sts. from st. holder and work the required number of inches.
KNOTS: When very little loss of yarn is involved, place knots at end of rows. If loss of yarn is too great do not make knot but have a four inch (4") end. Work next stitch from the new ball also leaving in the four inch end. After 4 or 5 rows have been worked over this joining, tie these ends firmly.
MARKERS: When the instructions say to slip a marker on needle, use a small safety pin, or a tied loop of yarn in contrasting, shade, slip on right hand knitting needle and on next Row slip from one needle to the other and continue work.
NEEDLES - CAUTION: Always clean your needles before working. This prevents a dark line in your work.
PICKING UP DROPPED STITCHES: Keep a No. 2 Crochet hook in your knitting bag to use in picking up dropped stitches.
PICKING UP STITCHES: Always pick up stitches on right side of work.
PICKING UP STITCHES AROUND ARMHOLES: When You desire to knit in the sleeves (rather than knit them separately and sew them in) You pick up the stitches around the armhole in the following manner-attach yarn and knit stitches, picking up a loop through the knot of each Row. This makes a smooth joining. There should be the same number of stitches (5) on each side of the shoulder seam. Purl back on the wrong side 10 sts- beyond the shoulder seam, turn, work 20 sts., turn, work 22 sts., turn, work 24 sts. Continue In this manner until all stitches are being worked.
POMPONS: Wind yarn around cardboard for the size pompon desired. Slip from cardboard, tie securely in center and clip both ends, then trim in shape of a ball.
RAVEL STITCHES: When it is necessary to ravel out your work and then pick up the stitches again it is advisable to rip the last Row stitch by stitch placing each stitch on a fine steel needle. Then knit these stitches on to the size needle you are using.
RIBBING - On the first Row work in the ribbing pattern given On all other rows, k over the k sis and p over the p sts.
RIBBING AROUND NECKS OR ARMHOLES: When working with fine yarn, it is advisable to pick tip every knot, skipping the stitch in between. When working with heavy yarns, it is advisable to pick up every stitch and every rib.
RIBBING BANDS, such as cuffs, neck of openings and waistbands are usually worked on finer needles, than the main part of the garment.
SEED STITCH - On the first Row * k 1, p 1, repeat from * to end of Row. On all subsequent rows, k over the p st and p over the k st.
STITCH GAUGE - The STITCH GAUGE is the most important part of all knitting directions, since the sizing of any knitted garment is planned on this gauge You MUST work to the gauge which is given or your finished work will not be the size indicated in the directions.
TO CHECK STITCH GAUGE - Cast on approximately 20 sts, using the yarn and needles which will be used for the body of your work. Work in pattern St specified for 3 inches Bind off all sis. Block this knitted swatch and then, using a ruler as a guide, count the number of sts to 1 inch, If your stitch gauge is MORE sts to 1 inch than that given in the directions try the next size larger needle and again check your gauge. If your St gauge is LESS sts to 1 inch that that given in the directions, try the next size smaller needle and again check your gauge. The IMPORTANT THING to remember is that the size needle used does not matter as long as your stitch gauge is correct.
SLIP A STITCH - Whenever the directions specify a sl st, always insert the right hand needle in the St to be sliped as it to p, unless otherwise indicated.
STOCKINETTE STITCH - K 1 Row, p 1 Row alternately when working on straight needles. When working round and round on a circular needle or double point needles knit every round.
TASSELS: Wind yarn around cardboard the size of tassel desired. Tie firmly at one end, slip from the card and wind wool several times around the loops near the top. Trim the ends off evenly.
V NECK - TO MITER: After picking up necessary number of sts. decrease at point of V by K. 2 tog., 2 times every Row.
WHEN KNITTING 2 PARTS OF A GARMENT (both right and left side of a sweater) that correspond, it is advisable- to work them at the same time on the same needles, using 2 balls of yarn.