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Bikini Pattern - Crochet

  Crochet Bikini Pattern
 From: RLHulin@aol.com  To: lester@senet.com.au
convert this to knit

BRAZILIAN BIKINI

 An original design by Beatriz Medina, Rio de Janeiro, Brazil  Donated to the CP Pattern Library 2/97

 This one fits a small size (Chest from 31" to 33", hips from 33" to 36") with  notes for increasing the size.

 GAUGE: a 2" dc square has 20 stitches and 11 rows.

 Editor Pattern Notes for Bikini Top

 Substitute ch 3 for dc at beg of rnds. Sl st to top of first st or chain to  close each rnd.

 Motif Size with fingering weight thread: 3" and 1.75mm hook (Bates US 4)
 Motif Size with acrylic sport weight (like Lustersheen): 3 ½" and B hook

 MATERIALS:
  The original bikini used two colors: marine blue as main color and white as  contrasting color.

 1.1 oz of synthetic and somewhat elastic yarn (orlon or helanca) (equivalent  to fingering weight yarn), hook # 2 (1.75 mm).

 OR Sport Weight Thread (like Lustersheen) and B hook

 DIRECTIONS:
Bottom of Bikini
  Front: Chain 24 (6.5cm = 2 5/8"). Work straight in dc for 16 rows (8 cm = 3  1/8 "), making 3 ch in the place of the first dc of each Row.

Then begin  increasing at each side: in the beginning of 17th Row, after the first 3 ch  (=1 dc), make 1 dc more in the last stitch of the previous Row; in the end,  make 2 dc in the last stitch of the previous Row. Continue increasing in the  18th Row, but not in the 19th. Continue this way (2 increasing rows, 1 plain   Row) for 20 rows (total: 36 rows), getting 52 stitches at the end.

 Back: Beginning at the other side of the base chain of the front, make 1 Row   of dc (24 st) and continue increasing 1 stitch at the beginning and another  at the end of every Row. If you prefer a tinier bottom, skip increasing 1 Row   for each 3 rows (as in the front). Make 36 rows, getting 94 stitches at the  end.

 Finishing: With a contrasting color, and beginning in the beginning chain of  the front bottom, right side up, make 3 sc in each 2 rows of the side of the  straight part (12 xc). *Skip one Row and in the dc on the side of the next  Row make 5 dc; skip one Row, in the dc of the next Row make 1 sc*. Repeat from * to * . At the extremity make 4 dc, 84 ch, turn the work, in the 2nd  stitch from the hook make 1 sc in each stitch until you're back at the 4 dc;  make 3 dc more on the same point. *Skip 2 st, 5 dc in the same st, skip 3 st,  1 sc*. Continue this way until you reach the other extremity; repeat the same  as in the previous extremity (4 dc, 84 ch, 1 Row of sc, 3 dc).
Make the other  side symmetrically; in the straight part, repeat the sc of the beginning of
 this Row; make the sides, the sc strings and the upper part of the back in  the same way. If the number of stitches doesn't match exactly, don't worry:  compensate skipping more or less stitches between the 5 dc groups.
Little differences are imperceptible. End up with 1 slip stitch in the first sc of  the Row.

 To put on the bottom, tie the strings at the sides of the body.  The bottom size can be easily adjusted. Just maintain the increasing pattern:  in the front, 2 increasing rows, 1 plain Row; in the back, all increasing rows. You can change the initial number of stitches to correct gauge and make  the necessary number of rows to achieve the desired height.
If you want a  bigger front, you can increase in all rows, like in the back. Try to see how
 it looks. If after finished the slip isn't tight enough, you can interlace a  thin elastic in the finishing stitches, fastening securely.

 ---Top of Bikini Rnd 1-6 for small with instructions for making the bikini  top bigger

 Note: The part of the top that covers each breast is made with three motifs  crocheted together to make a kind of "pyramid."

 Substitute ch 3 for dc at beg of rnds. Sl st to top of first st or chain to  close each rnd.

 Directions for First Motif: Begin with 4 ch, sl st to make a circle.
  1st rnd: *In circle make 3 dc, ch 2. Repeat from * 2 more times. Work 3 more  dc in circle. Ch 1, hdc in top of first dc to close.

  2nd rnd: Work 4 dcs in arch just made from hdc. *Sk dc, 1 sc in next dc. Sk  next dc. Work 7 dc in the next ch-2 arch. Repeat from * two more times. Sk  dc, 1 sc in next st. 3 dc in the last arch. Sl st to join.

  3rd rnd: Work 4 dcs in joining. *Skip 1 dc, 1 sc in next st, ch 3, skip 3 st,  1 sc in next st. Skip 1 st, 7 dc in the next stitch. Repeat from * two more  times. Skip 1 dc, make 1 sc in next st. ch 3 , skip 3 st, 1 sc in next st.  skip 1 st. Make 3 dcs in the same stitch where you made the first double crochets in the beginning of the rnd. Join with sc in first dc.

  4th rnd: *Work ch 3, skip 1 st, 1 sc in next st. Skip 2 sts. 7 dc in the 3-ch  arch. Sk next st and make dc in next st. Ch 3, skip 1 st, make 1 sc in next  st. Repeat from * three more times, replacing the last sc with a sl st to join.

  5th rnd Slip stitch to 3 ch arch. Make 6 dc in the arch. *Skip the first dc  of 7-dc group from previous rnd. Make sc in each of next 5 sts. Skip the last  dc of 7-dc group. Make 6 dc in the next 3 ch arch. Ch 1, 6 dc in the next  arch. Repeat from * two more times. Skip the first dc of the next 7-dc group.  Make sc in each of next 5 sts. Skip the last dc of 7-dc group. Make 6 dc in  the next arch. Ch 1, sl st to join.

  6th rnd: Make Dc in each dc and sc st until you reach the ch-1 arch. In ch-1  arch, make 2dc, ch 1, 2dc. Continue in established patterns. End with sl st  to top of first st to join. Fasten off.

 -----To make the top bigger--Designer's Notes

 Option 1: If you need to increase the top, make more dc rows around the  squares, always making *2dc, 1ch, 2dc* at the corners. You can increase the  neck strings and the chest string too. --Desiger

 Option 2: Here's another way to make the top bigger--Editor's note:
  Rather than add more rounds of rnd 6 to make the top bigger by increasing the  border, I wanted to continue with more of the Beatriz's nice design first.

 Here's what I did for a top size 34" to 36"
  Follow instructions for Rnds 1-5.

  Rnd 6: *Ch 5, sk 3 sts. sc in next st. Sk 2 st. 5 dc all in next st. Sk 2 st.
 sc in middle st of group. sk 1 st, 5 dc all in next st. Sk 2 sts, sc in next.  Ch 5, sc in ch-1 loop from previous rnd. Repeat from * around, substituting  sl st for last sc.

  Rnd 7: Sl st to ch 5 arch. Make 6 dc in arch. *Sk first dc in 5-dc group.  Make sc in each of next 9 sts. Sk last dc of 5-dc group. Make 6 dc in next  ch-5 arch. Ch 1, Make 6 dc in next ch-5 arch. Repeat from * two more times. Sk   first st of next 7 dc group. Make sc in each of next 9 sts. Skip last dc of  group. Make 6 dc in last arch. Ch 1. sl st to join.

  Rnd 8: Make hdc in each dc and sc across until you reach the ch-1 arch. In  ch-1 arch, make 2 hdc, ch-1, hdc. Continue in established pattern around. End  with sl st top to of first st to join.
Fasten off.

 For Second Motif: Make the second square the same way, but don't cut the  yarn; put together the two squares, bringing wrong sides together, and make a  sc or stitch to join them along one side.. Make the third square and unite it  the same way with the right side square of the previously joined strip of 2  squares (left side square if you are a leftie). Going on with the sc Row,  join the third square to the square on the left (on the right, if you are a  leftie). End up.

Make the second cup/pyramid similarly.

 Finishing: With contrasting color, make a dc Row along one side of one of the  triangles (this will be the base of the triangle). After the last dc in the  last arch of the base, make 2 slip stitches along the side of the dc to get  to its base and work along the side of the triangle, in the following way:  *skip 2 st, 5 dc in the same st (shell) skip 2 st, 1 sc* until next angle; in  the ch arch of the angle make 1 sc, 144 ch, go back with 144 sc, 1 sc;  continue along the other side of the triangle repeating from * to *. Do the  same in the other bow.

 Note: When I made the small size, I had 7 shells on each side. (ssg)
Make a chain of 250 stitches, turn and make a sc Row. Weave this string  across the dc of the base of the two bows. Tie this around the chest and the  strings of the top of the triangles behind the neck.

 If you need to increase the top, make more dc rows around the squares, always  making *2dc, 1ch, 2dc* at the corners. You can increase the neck strings and  the chest string too.

 NOTE: This is an original design by Beatriz Medina and is posted at the CP  Pattern Library with permission.