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Exchanging knit to crochet


Small Dog Sweater

  Thank you    Alison Boucher 


Finished length: 18.5 inches (approx.)

Finished width around widest part: 20 inches (approx.)

Yarn used: Chunky weight

Needles: I would use the size recommended on the yarn wrapper. It looks like the ribbing is done in almost the same size needle as the body, though you could use one or two sizes smaller for the ribbing to give it more elasticity (i.e.-use 5 mm needles for ribbing, 5.5 or 6mm for body)

Gauge: Approximately 16 sts. per 4 inch

I did not include a gauge for rows (I think it should be about 5 rows per inch in st. st), as I have included measurements for increases, etc. I would recommend measuring as you go, and using measurement as your primary guide (rather than Row counts) to make sure it is the size you want.

*Note-I am a left-handed knitter, so I knit from the opposite side. I assume you knit right-handed, so I have written the pattern for a right-handed knitter. The only part that it should affect is the front and back parts of the sweater. If my directions don’t make sense, please call!

Abbreviations: K: Knit

P: Purl

St.: Stitch

St.st: Stocking stitch (knit on right side, purl on wrong)

Inc: Increase

SKP: Slip a stitch, knit a stitch, pass slipped stitch over knit stitch (thereby decreasing one stitch)

K2tog: Knit two stitches together

BO: Bind off

RIBBING: Cast on 75 stitches. Work approximately 10 rows (1.5 inches) of ribbing in this pattern:

First Row (right side): *K1, P1 to last stitch, K1

Second Row (wrong side): *P1, K1 to last stitch, P1 (the extra stitch gives you a nice edge)


*NOTE-It looks like the first and last stitch of the body are knit stitches throughout (knit on both right and wrong sides). This is called a selvage stitch, and helps keep the body from curling, as well as making a nice edge for sewing. I would recommend you do this too.

Change to larger size needles (if desired). Work approx. 10 rows in st. st. (this will take you to approx. 3.5 inches from beginning).

Next Row: K17 sts, place marker, inc. 1, K41, inc. 1, place marker, K17 to end of Row (77 sts)

I would suggest placing the markers, as this is where you will increase in future rows.

Next Row: P

Work approx. 14 rows st. st. (now approx. 6 inches from beginning).

Next Row, K17, inc. 1, K to next marker, inc. 1, K to end of Row (79 sts)

Next Row: P

Work 14 rows in st. st. (now approx. 8.5 inches from beginning)

Next Row: Inc. 1 at each marker as before. (81 sts)

Next Row: P

Work 4 rows st. st.

Next Row: Inc. 1 at each marker (83 sts)

Next Row: P

Knit 2 rows st. st. (now approx. 10 inches from beginning)

Note: You will now begin the front and back sections of the sweater, starting with the right front.

RIGHT FRONT: K1, Inc. 1, K15 (17 sts total), TURN (you can either leave the rest of the stitches for the body on a separate holder, or on the needle)

Next Row: P

Work approximately 22 rows st. st. in total on these 17 sts. (approx. 3.5 to 3.75 inches from the point where you began the right front section)

Knit across the 17 sts, then place these on a separate stitch holder, as you will now begin the back section. You will add these stitches to the rest of your work later on.

Cut yarn, attach to next stitch to begin back section.

BACK: Inc 1, Knit 51, Inc. 1 (53 sts) TURN. There should be another 16 sts on the needle that you will use for the left front. If you wish, you can put these on a separate stitch holder.

Next Row: P

Work approx. 16 rows of st. st. in total, ending with a wrong side

Next Row: You will begin decreasing two stitches on every knit Row at this point. You will set the decreases this way: K7, place marker, SKP, K35, K2tog, place marker, K7 (51 sts)

Next Row: P

Next Row: K7 to marker, SKP, K33 (you should be two stitches in front of the next marker), K2tog, K7 (49sts)

Next Row: P

Next Row: K7, SKP, K31, K2tog, K7 (47 sts).

Next Row: P

If my math is correct, your back should now be the same length as the right front (if not, continue working until it is, ending with a purl Row).

Next Row: K across back stitches (remember to decrease two sts), then place them on a separate holder while you work left front. (45 sts for back). Cut yarn, attach for left front.

*NOTE: You will continue decreasing two stitches on every knit Row to top ribbing. I have worded the decreases so that they should slant INWARDS, towards the center of the sweater. If you do a Row with a decrease in it and it doesn't look right, it is because I have had difficulty imagining it from the right-hand point of view. You can correct it by doing the decreases this way instead: K to marker, K2tog, K to 2 sts. before the next marker, SKP, K7. Sorry for any confusion.

LEFT FRONT: Take 16 sts from holder, and put them on needle. K15, Inc. 1, K1 (17 sts) TURN

Next Row: P

Work 23 rows of st. st. in total (ending with a knit Row), or until left front is the same length as right front and back.

Next Row: Place all sts back on needle (from right front and back), and P across all sts, thereby joining the body together again. You should have about 79 sts on the needle. This may vary, depending on how many decreases you have done on the back before rejoining it to the rest of the body. I don’t think having 2 sts more or less than I have stated will make much of a difference.

Work approx. 18 rows in st. st. (3.5 inches from the point where you joined the body again). Remember to continue to decrease 2 sts as set for the back every K Row.

You should now have approx. 61 sts on needle. (The sweater should now be approx. 15 inches in length from beginning)

You will now begin the ribbing of the neck (switch to smaller needles if you wish)

Next Row: Inc 1. Beginning with the increased stitch, *P1, K1 to last stitch, Inc.1, K the increase st., P last stitch. (63 sts) This is the RIGHT side of you work

Next Row: * K1, P1 to last stitch, K1 (wrong side of work)

Next Row: *P1, K1 to last stitch, P1 (right side)

Continue in ribbing for a total of about 22 rows (3.5 inches)

BO loosely in ribbing.


Pick up approx. 44 sts (even number) of stitches around the opening. Divide the sts. onto 3 double point needles (use the same size needles as for the body ribbing). Place a marker in front of the first stitch, and rib approximately 20 rows (3 inches). BO loosely in ribbing. Repeat for other leg opening. If you are not comfortable working with double point needles, you can do the work on straight needles, then sew the side seam later on.

Finishing: Lightly press sweater if desired (check yarn wrapper for care). Sew up front as desired. Weave in ends.

If you want to add the back leg straps, it looks like they are knit separately, then sewed into place. I couldn't figure out the stitch used on them, but this would work: CO 5 sts, and work each Row in K1, P1, K1, P1, K1 every Row to desired length. (approx. 8 inches)

Note: this is called Moss stitch, and does not look like ribbing, as the knit and purl stitches should not line up.

I didn't include an opening for the leash, as you seemed to have that figured out. I would try the sweater on the dog (the finished one, not the one you are going to knit), decide where the opening should go, and then determine where in the pattern you want to place it. Call me if you need help with this.

I hope this pattern works for you. I tried not to make it to difficult, as I'm not sure what level of knitter you are (hope it doesn't sound too simplistic). If you have any problems or the measurements, etc., seem way out, please feel free to email me. Good luck, and happy knitting!